A Snorkel Tour: Guiding You to the Best of Fiji
Article by Joel Simon

When I first landed in Fiji, it opened its arms wide in an embrace of friendship and hospitality that has grown stronger with every visit. In 1985, I had just finished an assignment teaching snorkeling and marine biology on a cruise that began in Rabaul, Papua New Guinea and concluded at Suva, Fiji’s capital port. On the dock, I watched a local young man loading lumber onto a road-worn pick-up truck. "Bula" he said with a smile, "My name is Tui". Soon I was helping with the wood. As we completed the task, he politely asked me where I was going. "Nowhere special, it’s my first time in Fiji. I just want to see the country", I replied. "Well then, why not come along with me? If you like, you can help unload the lumber."

Three days, three ferries, five trucks, and four islands later, we arrived at his little village of Dreketi on the island of Gamea. There I stayed, living in his parent’s house, for almost one month. While we transformed the lumber into a stout little boat, I participated in daily life.

Each afternoon the men would gather with tiny hand-carved wooden goggles dangling from massive hands, and together we snorkeled the shallow reef, spearing fish for dinner. To these villagers, the reef was an integrated part of their lifestyle, and the fish an essential component of their diet. To me, the reef was a stunning example of South Pacific marine ecology.

Since 1985, I’ve been back to Fiji nearly every year, leading educational snorkeling programs to study the marine biology of its bountiful waters. And each time I am captivated not only by the luxuriant reefs, but also by the warmth and hospitality of the Fijian people.

Fiji is composed of approximately 330 islands, of which about 100 are permanently inhabited. Commonly divided into four main groups, collectively they spread out over 250,000 square miles of ocean, roughly the size of Texas. The group sits between 15 and 22 degrees South latitude, a location that provides a tropical climate both above and below the water line. Weather conditions are best described as "seasonal trends," and like other parts of the world, lately seem to be in flux. Also, because the islands vary so much in location and size, a range of climates may exist simultaneously. The leeward, or western sides of the larger islands tend to be dryer, and consequently sunnier, while the eastern sides experience more rain, clouds, and wind.

In general, Fiji has two seasons: the "dry-cool" season (May - October), and the "wet-warm" season (November - April). Again, these are relative terms: the "dry" months are still subject to overcast days and sporadic rain showers, but less likely to have cyclones or other large tropical storms. Most people, especially those with water-oriented interests, prefer to visit Fiji during the dry "winter" months. During this time, trade winds keep the air fresh, and daytime temperatures typically range from 75-85º F.

Imagine a South Seas paradise and you imagine Fiji: soft balmy breezes caress gently waving palm trees that cast dancing shadows on secluded beaches of white sand. A tranquil lagoon of crystalline aquamarine water stretches to the horizon and beyond. As day turns to dusk, the fiery orange sun ignites the sky with yellows, reds, and purples, mirrored off the shimmering surface of the sea. Well, not every day, but often enough.

The lush tropical splendor above the water is equaled below the ocean’s surface. Sea temperatures range from the high 70’s to low 80’s, perfect for healthy reefs. There is much variety, after all, not all reefs are created equal. Selectively, however, Fiji offers some of the best snorkeling in the South Pacific. And for those familiar only with the Caribbean, Fiji’s waters hold some delightful surprises and contrasts.

For snorkelers, one of the most striking features of Fiji’s reefs are the "bommies." These are large coral heads, sometimes huge, that rise like pinnacles, from the ocean’s depths to within just a few feet of the surface. They really seem custom designed for snorkelers. The low tide limits coral growth, so typically, bommies have expansive relatively flat tops in very shallow water, even though their base may be hundreds of feet deep. The sides are often precipitous, creating dramatic vertical walls that fall away into the deep blue. Because these coral heads are generally found in open water, or the protected water of large lagoons, they teem with life.

During my most recent visit, our snorkeling group was based on Kadavu, the fourth largest of Fiji’s islands. In the bay, a string of offshore bommies gave us the perfect opportunity to examine the prolific marine life for ourselves. The most immediately stunning element is the corals themselves. A wreath of outstretched hard corals surrounds the upper edges and sides of these bommies. In places, the growth is so thick the corals cover everything, including themselves. Beneath the hard corals, outgrowths of yellow and red soft corals emerge. Known as the "soft coral capital of the world," Fiji’s reefs can be as colorful as a tropical sunset. The tops of these living plateaus often contain giant clams, crown of thorns starfish, pencil-slate urchins, and anemones bustling with a variety of clownfish.

In addition to bommies, numerous creatures also distinguish the South Pacific from the Caribbean. Clownfish, sometimes called anemone fish because they live among the protective tentacles of anemones, are easily viewed by snorkelers. Another fascinating fish not found in the Caribbean is the dramatically plumed lion fish. They swim slowly, are visually obvious, and although their long red-orange spines are venomous, snorkelers are not part of their diet.

Fiji’s waters also contain black and white banded sea snakes, a marine reptile. They too are poisonous; in fact, their venom is considered more deadly than a king cobra’s. Fortunately, their fangs are small and placed in the rear of their tiny mouths. As reptiles, they breath air, and they must sometimes share the surface with snorkelers. Don’t worry, no one has ever been bitten, or at least I’ve never heard a first-hand account!

Variations of more familiar fish are also easily viewed while snorkeling in Fiji. The prolific reef supports a wide range of butterfly fish, groupers, brightly colored basslets, angelfish, puffers, filefish, triggers, and countless wrasses, including parrotfish. All commonly circulate among the abundant corals.

Not long ago I had the privilege of sailing on the Nai’a, a 110-foot Fiji-based liveaboard motor/sailboat. Although it typically caters to serious divers, many of the places we visited featured exquisite snorkeling as well. Of these, perhaps the most outstanding was the granddaddy of all bommies, which Rob Barrel, the ship’s owner, discovered while flying over the area. Named "E-6" as a tribute to the excellent photo opportunities, it’s really a remote, premature island. I’m just guessing, but the shallow circular surface appeared to be roughly four or five acres of lush coral gardens.

In addition to all the usual sealife, here snorkelers can also see schools of barracudas, jacks, and unicorn fish, manta rays, and the occasional patrolling reef shark. And although the top of the bommie is just a few feet below the surface, its walls plummet hundreds of feet to the ocean floor below. It’s truly world-class snorkeling.

Excellent snorkeling conditions are also found on the protected sides of Fiji’s barrier reefs and inside their sheltered lagoons. In many areas, impressive coral communities are also accessible from shore. On the small island of Nananu-i-Ra, just off the north coast of Viti Levu, white sand beaches are fringed with elegant soft corals populated by numerous juvenile reef fish. Many islands in the Lau group, only recently opened to tourism, are surrounded by opulent hard coral gardens, and are a short swim from shore.

In general, Fiji caters to the independent snorkeler, but guided snorkeling, while still in its infancy, is a growing service many visitors appreciate. An expanding number of resorts are learning to recognize snorkelers’ needs, and some have daily boats that will take snorkelers to outlying reefs and bommies. Although there may be others, at least one American travel operator, Sea for Yourself, (650) 322-1494, specializes in educational guided snorkel trips to Fiji.

Accommodations available in Fiji range from the most rustic backpackers campsites to the most lavish full-featured resorts, with prices to match. Air Pacific (800) 227-4446 has recently introduced a twice weekly nonstop flight from Los Angeles to Fiji’s International Airport at Nadi. Although the flight is about 10 hours, its nonstop feature makes Fiji one of the most easily accessible destinations for a truly South Pacific snorkeling experience. In addition, Americans will be glad to know that most Fijians speak excellent English. Health conscious visitors may also celebrate Fiji as an area virtually free of malaria. For more information call the Fiji Visitor’s Bureau (800) 932-3454.

With over 300 islands, hundreds of miles of reefs, and what many consider the most friendly people in the world, Fiji welcomes guests with broad smiles and open arms. Once you visit, it’s an embrace you’ll never forget.